Flashy & Trashy

When I first came to Las Vegas in 2010 for a Tony Robbins Business conference, I had huge prejudices about how tacky it would be – an extreme version of all the negative excesses of American culture, on steroids!

I stayed at Steve Wynn’s  recently opened Encore and was bowled over by the quality of this fantasy extravaganza. I loved the trip and returned to the Encore this year but included a weekend. Well... what a difference. Packs of testosterone filled lads strolled around with beer bottles, and no sartorial respect for the plush surroundings, along with legions of seriously overweight girls with a worryingly low fabric to flesh ratio, no doubt inspired by ‘Jersey Shore’. I booked dinner at the smart new Asian restaurant, Andrea’s, for Saturday and was reminded of the dress code – no flip-flops or shorts! I think this A-List resort’s target market has cascaded down the social alphabet a little since opening. Must be the difficult economy.

Andrea’s PR gush, promised a unique model in Asian dining; the merger of..…“exotic Asian flavours from chef Joseph Elevado and musical talent of chef Steve Angello into an unforgettable nightlife experience!” In the end it was just another Nobuesque offering but with loud clubby/retail music. Unfortunately not loud enough to drown out the table next to us; 18 Jocks trying to outdo each other on the decibel count or the similar sized party next to them who wanted to be sure everyone in the restaurant knew they were there to celebrate a birthday…all evening. The kitchen had run out of their Black Cod Miso which is always a good test comparison of a modern Asian restaurant, but the dishes we had were virtually on par with the best Global Asian offerings.

The Encore may have the biggest Ferrari dealership in America but now charges $10 to go in and many of the visitors want to buy the photo of themselves sitting in their favourite car. Disneyland came to mind; the resort seems to be becoming more of a tourist attraction.

As I walked through during Saturday, coach-loads of day-trippers were taking in the sights as they would any other National Monument, like The Tower of London or Notre Dame Cathedral. 

“Okay ladies off to The Venetian now!” screamed one tour guide. I can enjoy the buzz of the crowd but when it’s incessant and reminds me of the rush hour for the London Underground, I start to question if I’m in the right place. The hotel remains luxurious but it no longer feels exclusive. I guess that’s hard with 2000 rooms. Thankfully the wonderful spa was still quiet and tranquil (clearly the hordes don’t do Zen) and I could retreat to my generously proportioned suite which is incredibly good value by international standards.

They do a great job of keeping it fresh and clean. The interior finishes look better after 4 years than most new buildings after 4 months, a creditable achievement in a resort this size. I definitely recommend it, but avoid the weekend. Moving on now to The Hotel at The Mandalay for the Redken Symposium.